S1 E81 | Landslides, Local Food, and Sunset on the Mekong in Luang Prabang

Leaving the relaxed town of Vang Vieng behind, we set out for Luang Prabang — the cultural heart of Laos. The road, however, had other plans. Instead of a smooth ride, we found ourselves caught in monsoon-season landslides. At one point, everyone had to get down from the van and walk while the vehicle carefully maneuvered its way past the rubble. It was nerve-wracking, but strangely beautiful, with misty mountains framing the muddy roads.

This route is usually avoided by tourists for exactly this reason, but flying was too expensive, and train tickets for foreigners were almost impossible to get. So we stuck with the road — and with every landslide we crossed, our sense of adventure only grew.

When we finally arrived in Luang Prabang, the reward was immediate. We checked into what turned out to be one of our best stays in Laos — a riverside room overlooking the Mekong, run by the kindest host. For just a few dollars a night, it felt almost too good to be true.

The city welcomed us with its food. We tried crispy sweet potato fries — a delicious balance between French fries and pakoras — and a local version of the Lao-Vietnamese baguette sandwich, stuffed with tangy pickled vegetables and even roasted eggplant. Dessert was a sweet sticky treat whose name we kept forgetting but loved nonetheless.

And then came something we rarely indulge in: massages. At just 250 INR (about $3) for an hour, it felt like the best deal in the world. Even Nav, who usually avoids massages, walked out saying it wasn’t bad at all.

The day wound down with a golden sunset over the Mekong. Just outside our guesthouse, the sky lit up in shades of pink and orange, reflecting off the river in a way that made the entire day of delays and landslides worthwhile.

It was a journey of challenges and little luxuries — proof that even on a budget, Luang Prabang offered moments of pure magic.