S1 E74 | First Impressions of Laos – Cycling Don Det, Waterfalls and French Colonial Echoes

In May 2022, we left home with two backpacks and endless curiosity, and by now we had wandered through Thailand, Vietnam, and Cambodia. This week, our adventure continued into Laos, starting on the island of Don Det in the legendary 4000 Islands (Si Phan Don).

We rented bicycles for 15,000 kip each and set out to explore. Pedaling across the old French-built bridge that links Don Det and Don Khon, we felt a sense of calm settle in—the Mekong flowed endlessly, dotted with small riverine islands, each with its own rhythm of life.

Our destination was one of the region’s spectacular waterfalls. The rapids roared with untamed energy, their muddy waters carrying the silt of the Mekong from far upstream. Even in the low season, the sheer force of the water was staggering. The locals say it’s even more dramatic in the monsoon months when the river is at its fullest.

When rain caught us mid-ride, we ducked under shelter and enjoyed fresh coconuts (10,000 kip each) with a packet of chips—simple pleasures that taste better when you’ve earned them. Watching life unfold around us reminded us of why we love slow travel: the smiles, the shared moments, the little details of daily life.

Later, we stumbled upon traces of French colonial history—abandoned villas, fading railway relics, and even a rusting old train from the 1860s Mekong expedition. Though time had weathered these remnants, they stood as a reminder of the region’s layered past.

Evening fell, and the flooded playground of a village school became the stage for a group of kids playing joyfully despite the rain. That image stayed with us—the simplicity of life here, the happiness found in little things. Laos may be one of the poorest countries in Southeast Asia, but its people radiated a warmth and contentment that was contagious.

We ended the day with dinner and laughter among new friends, while Nav braved his fear of dogs by standing calmly just a few feet away from one—another small but personal victory of this journey.

Our first day in Laos was a mix of adventure, history, and reflection. Don Det and Don Khon offered a glimpse into a slower pace of life, one we were eager to soak in before moving further into this magical country.