S1 E73 | From Cambodia to Laos – Crossing the worst rated land border in SE Asia Borders

This day marked the beginning of a new chapter as we left Cambodia behind and journeyed toward Laos. We started in a familiar tuk-tuk—a Bajaj auto rickshaw, almost identical to the ones we grew up with in India. Rides here can be booked through an app called Pass App, similar to Uber, though sometimes bargaining directly with the driver gets you the best deal.

Our long day of travel began with a bus ride from Stung Treng. At first, it felt confusing—we were dropped at the edge of town, and then, through a mix of phone calls and quick negotiations, a driver appeared, assuring us he had been helping travelers cross into Laos for over ten years. With one combined ticket covering both bus and boat, we set off slightly nervous about the journey, as this border crossing was known to involve extra “fees” and hassles.

Soon we reached no man’s land, the stretch between the Cambodian exit post and the Lao immigration gate. We walked across with our passports freshly stamped, a strange in-between zone where technically we belonged to neither country. Once the visa formalities were completed, we were back on the road, headed toward the iconic 4000 Islands region of southern Laos.

From there, the journey turned scenic. We boarded a boat across the Mekong River, gliding over calm waters until we reached Don Det, one of the main islands. Just off the pier, locals offered currency exchange services—dollars, baht, or riel swapped into Lao kip. It was a practical welcome to our new home for the next few days.

By evening, we checked into a cozy riverside guesthouse for just 60,000 kip a night. As the sun set, painting the sky black over the Mekong, we stepped out to explore. Dinner turned into an unexpected highlight—we stumbled upon an Indian restaurant and found ourselves helping the owners plan their menu. Meeting fellow travelers and locals like this reminded us of why we love the road so much: the exchange of cultures, stories, and laughter across dinner tables.

Nav even squeezed in his first haircut in Laos, at a small roadside salon. It was simple, quick, and ended with a generous amount of gel—an experience to remember.

From tuk-tuks and border crossings to boat rides and riverside meals, this day was a mix of nerves, relief, and excitement. Arriving in Don Det felt like stepping into a slower, quieter world—one we couldn’t wait to explore in the days ahead.