S1 E64 | The Killing Fields of Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Our second day in Phnom Penh was one of the most emotional days of our journey through Cambodia. We rented a motorbike for $5, nervously leaving our passports as a deposit, and rode about 10 kilometers out of the city to reach the Killing Fields.

The site, officially known as Choeung Ek Genocidal Center, stands as a stark reminder of the Khmer Rouge regime that ruled Cambodia from 1975 to 1979. During those years, nearly two million people were killed—ordinary citizens, government workers, teachers, and even children—anyone the regime considered an enemy.

The memorial begins with a towering pagoda at the center of the grounds, built to house the remains of thousands of victims. Inside, shelves of skulls marked with colored stickers showed where each person was beaten, a detail that was difficult to process. As we walked through the grounds, we saw mass graves that had once been filled with bodies, some uncovered later by rains that revealed scraps of clothing.

Perhaps the most haunting was the “killing tree,” where children were brutally murdered. Standing before it was almost unbearable, yet it felt necessary to bear witness. It was impossible not to feel heavy and emotional while walking through these fields.

Yet, as we learned, Cambodia rose from this darkness with the help of the Vietnamese Army in 1979, eventually overthrowing the Khmer Rouge and rebuilding the Kingdom of Cambodia. Today, the resilience of its people shines through in their warmth, smiles, and hospitality—even while carrying memories of unimaginable pain.

After such a sobering visit, we needed something familiar to lift our spirits. Later that evening, we stumbled upon a South Indian restaurant in Phnom Penh. The photos of Lakshmi and Ganesha at the entrance instantly reminded us of home, and we knew we were in the right place. For just a few dollars, we enjoyed banana leaf meals that tasted like they were straight from Bangalore. With festivals happening back home, it felt comforting to share in a small piece of tradition so far away.

We ended the day with full stomachs and heavy hearts—grateful for the chance to learn, reflect, and find comfort in unexpected places. Phnom Penh had shown us both its darkest past and its welcoming present, making it one of the most unforgettable stops on our travels.